The five villages of the Cinque Terre cling to a steep stretch of the Ligurian coast, their colourful houses stacked on top of each other above tiny harbours. For centuries they were connected mostly by footpaths and by the sea, and walking between them is still the best way to understand how people built a life on such a vertical landscape.
We walked the coastal trail over two days, taking it slowly and stopping in every village. The path alternates between easy sections along the cliffs and steeper climbs with stone steps, some of them surprisingly long. Good shoes, water and a hat are essential, especially in the warmer months, when shade can be scarce.
What makes the walk special is the constant change of view. One moment you are looking down at the sea from a narrow ledge, the next you are passing through terraced vineyards held up by dry stone walls, built by hand over generations. Local farmers still grow grapes and olives here, and in late summer you may see the harvest happening on slopes that look impossible to work.
Each village has its own character. Some are built around a small harbour where fishing boats are pulled up onto the street, others sit higher on the rock with narrow lanes and steep staircases. Lunch was usually focaccia and anchovies, followed by a long rest on the harbour wall before the next stretch of trail.
A few things are worth knowing before you go. Some sections of the trail may require a pass or may be closed for maintenance after heavy rain, so check the current situation before starting. The trains that run along the coast are a practical way to skip a section or return to your base. And, as always, the early morning is the best time: cooler, quieter and with beautiful light on the water.
Walking the Cinque Terre is not about covering distance quickly. It is about slowing down, climbing a few more steps than planned, and stopping often to look back at the village you just left.
